In the new film The Descendants, director Alexander Payne paints a bittersweet portrait of Matt King (George Clooney), and of everyday life in the Hawaiian Islands. For non-natives, the film is also an education in the modern Aloha Shirt. Taken out of context, some Aloha shirts can be obnoxious, or even comical. But in Hawaii, surrounded by vivid, Jurassic-sized plants and flowers, men dressed in tasteful tropical prints look like perfect gentlemen. Many tourists don’t realize that an Aloha Shirt is formal wear for Kama’aina (local) men when attending business functions and social gatherings. You can wear dress shoes and pants there if you like, but there’s no need to bring a tie or jacket – you won’t last long dressed like that in Hawaii’s humid climate.

If you’re not totally comfortable expressing yourself through prints, start with Reyn Spooner. They maintain a wide assortment of conservative, subtle patterns that have made them the Brooks Brothers of the Islands. Founder Reyn McCullough’s original idea was to bring a more tucked-in New England approach to Hawaiian-style clothing in the early 60’s. His ‘Ivy-League’ shirt patterns were borrowed from the Gant Brothers’ pattern-maker in New York City, and his now-famous ‘reverse-print’ technique was borrowed from a Waikiki bartender named Pat Dorian. Reyn’s innovative new look “sold like hotcakes overnight, becoming the shirt of choice for Honolulu’s movers and shakers…” says Tim McCullough. Still the brand of choice for today’s professional set, Reyn Spooner also carries a ‘modern’ line, that includes collaborations with younger brands like Stüssy and Urban Outfitters.

For third-generation Chinese American and Hilo-based native Sig Zane (above), prints are about more than just style. Zane places emphasis on the symbolic meaning that the plants in his designs have for the Hawaiian people – his first design was inspired by the Taro he had planted in the garden to mark his son’s birth. The company’s mission statement says; “Our designs are wedded to a place, nature and culture, and our values are simple. Honor the land and the native culture. Celebrate excellence and beauty. And share what we know.” Before starting the business in 1985, Sig was a student of Hula, and ended up marrying his teacher Nalani Kanaka’ole, daughter of local legend Edith Kanaka’ole. Together Sig and Nalani help carry the torch of Hawaiian culture and are teaching the next generation how to keep it lit.

First appearing in the 30’s, the ‘golden age’ of the Aloha Shirt lasted from the 40’s until the mid 50’s. Vivid rayon shirts from that era can go for thousands at auction. But the Aloha Shirt truly came of age in 1962, when the textile pioneer Alfred Shaheen and the rest of the Hawaiian Fashion Guild lobbied each member of the Hawaii State House and Senate with two free shirts. What they got in return was Aloha Fridays. And it didn’t take long before Aloha Fridays turned into Aloha Monday-through-Fridays. But what makes the shirt so special is that it’s a reflection of the wide variety of people that have called the Hawaiian Islands their home. Pacific Island tapa patterns, leftover Japanese kimono fabrics, skilled Chinese tailors, untucked Filipino barongs, and enterprising Haoles from the mainland have all played a part in the evolution of the Aloha Shirt.

Next time you’re in Honolulu, look for vintage shirts at Bailey’s on Kapahulu. For shirts online, try the Aloha Shirt Shop or the Hana Shirt Co.